hiking guidebook 2005


travel guidebook 2004

World > North America > USA Southwest > Upper Salt Creek

One of the best hikes in the world is

UPPER SALT CREEK

There are 60mi (96km) of great hiking trails in the Needles. Hike nearby Chesler Park on the same trip, if you can.

Note: We've not yet hiked Salt Creek. If you have, improve this page by e-mailing comments, recommendations and links in the appropriate sections below.Thanks!

The red dot is CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK , Utah.

AT A GLANCE

  • in the Needles section of the National Park
  • walk in the wash of a broad canyon
  • one of the "most delightful hikes" in the region
  • sometimes strenuous hiking
  • 24.2mi (39km) Upper Salt Creek from Cathedral Butte to Peakaboo, plus sidetrips
  • minimum 3 days for the normal route
  • most hikers will want to do a number of (essential) sidetrips, some much more challenging
  • many more excellent short hikes in this region
  • no public transportation to trailheads
  • the only easy way to do our recommended route is with two vehicles
  • worst months are June - Aug when average highs of 104F (40C) can strike down even fit hikers
  • open year round, best months are in the Spring and Fall

WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE

The Needles is the best section of Canyonlands for hikers. It's wonderful. The highlight for many is lovely Angel Arch. (1mi sidetrip)

  • more arches: Wedding Ring, Fish-eye, Kirk and Natural.
  • stream flows through much of the canyon, year round! (a rarity in this region)
  • diverse vegetation
  • wildlife—mule deer, coyote, bobcat, cougar
  • rock art and ruins
  • it's difficult to get lost as you follow the creek. (But the first 1.5mi is not in the creek.)
  • ... add a comment here

Don't let the name Salt Creek deter you. Guidebook author Bill Schneider says it should be called “Paradise Creek.”


Angel Arch - Salt Creek 4X4 Trail

CONSIDERATIONS

Hikers are warned repeatedly about the dangers of the heat and the real risk of getting lost. (This is one part of the world where carrying a GPS is highly recommended.) People have died in this area. You can suffer heat stroke in the day, hypothermia at night. Be careful.

Many chose Salt Creek because it has water. However, storms can make the creek too muddy to filter. Carry as much "emergency water" with you as possible. Or bring a high-end filter with you. Or, spend time straining the mud to clear it enough to filter.

  • National Parks entrance fee required for Canyonlands
  • you need a vehicle to hike Canyonlands. Hitchhiking is illegal in the National Park.
  • backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips
  • carry sufficient clothing for cold desert nights
  • be ready for snow and ice mid-winter
  • flooding is always a concern here, though Salt Creek is far safer than the slot canyons
  • it's essential not to contaminate the water supply
  • bring long pants to protect from thorns
  • normal mobile phones unlikely to have coveragepets allowed in the Park and in campgrounds, but not on any hiking trails. mosquitoes and biting flies may be a slight problem in the spring and early summer.
  • if you really look, you may be able to find: black widow spider, centipede, scorpion, rattlesnake or tarantula. They are normally not a bother.
  • ... add a comment here

ROUTES

We like the route recommended by Schneider in Falcon Hiking Canyonlands and Arches National Parks (2nd edition), Cathedral Butte to Peakaboo. (He discusses other options)

  • any vehicle can reach Cathedral Butte trailhead in good weather, but confirm with the Park before you set out. And confirm directions with Rangers.
  • it's possible to hire a shuttle bus to deliver you there but you'll need to negotiate the cost with one of the services listed under LOGISTICS below
  • Schneider recommends backcountry sites en route, and even explains when, where and how you can wild camp
  • you need a vehicle to pick you up at the end of this route (a hassle for many) ... or, keep walking down Peekaboo Trail towards the Needles and meet your group at the campground or information station.
  • ... add a comment here

LOGISTICS

If you sign on with a guided tour, logistics will be organized for you. This section is for independent hikers.

  • it's nearly essential to have your own vehicle to travel in this part of the world.
  • many rent a car in a major city and drive to Moab, Utah. Salt Lake City is 4.5hrs, Denver is 6hrs, Las Vegas further.
  • if you insist on coming via public transport, take the Bighorn Express shuttle van from the Salt Lake City airport. You can catch Bighorn in Green River as well which has both Greyhound bus and Amtrak train service.
  • American Spirit shuttle can deliver you to Moab from Grand Junction, Colorado
  • you could even fly to Moab's Canyonlands Field airport though flights are expensive
  • in town the best rent-a-car option is Thrifty Moab . Book ahead as their cars are often "out" during high season. (There are plenty of expensive jeeps and Hummers available though.)
  • more transportation options
  • driving through Moab on the noisy highway is a drag. Many experienced hikers avoid this over-priced tourist trap except to resupply with groceries and do laundry. But there is a great outdoors shop (Gearheads) if you need camp stove fuel.
  • to be fair, if you take any side street in Moab, you'll find a clean, friendly town with amazing bike trails
  • Moab has an award winning public library
  • free wireless internet is available almost everywhere in town if you have your own laptop
  • there are many accommodation and restaurant options
  • tent at charming Up The Creek campground in Moab or just out of town in one of many popular spots along the river. (Ask about free tenting spots at tourist information.)
  • The visitor center in Needles, Canyonlands is 40 miles south of Moab, then 35mi west on Utah Scenic Byway 211, via the Indian Creek climbing mecca. Allow plenty for photo stops.


NPS

  • note that you cannot get from Island in the Sky to Needles directly (without swimming)
  • en route, everyone stops at Newspaper Rock, "one of the most outstanding Indian Rock Art panels" in canyon country
  • the only National Park vehicle campground in Needles is Squaw Flat. But if you arrive late in the day (as we did) it will be full. You'll be pitching your tent in the free overflow Indian Creek camping area (quite good, pit toilet)
  • drinking water (Mar-Oct) available at the campground.
  • private store just outside the Park has limited supplies
  • stop at the National Park visitor center to check on local conditions, trail closures, etc. The staff is very helpful. This is also where you pick up backcountry permits. They have a full selection of maps.
  • ... add a comment here

Hike and bike shuttles from Moab. Negotiate a fee for drop-off and/or pick-up.

HIKING GUIDES

This trip is for experienced hikers that can handle desert conditions. If that's not you, check with a guiding service.

PERMITS and RESERVATIONS

You need a permit to tent in the backcountry. An advance reservation is recommended. A day use permit is required for driving on the 4-wheel-drive roads into Salt Creek, as well.

There was a backcountry fee of US$15 / group (up to 7 people) in 2007.

Reservation office staff are available by phone to answer questions and assist with trip planning Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. (Mountain Time), at (435) 259-4351. (sometimes afternoons, as well)... Reservations may NOT be made over the phone or by email."

If you have no reservation, you might be able to "walk in" and get one on arrival. Be at the information center first thing in the mornig. Mid-week is obviously easier than on the weekend.

In Needles you're best to head out to any of the backcountry campsites you can get rather than stay in the only car campground in the Park , Squaw Flat. But if you must car camp, try the fancy Reserve America website to make a reservation. It seems to work. but did not include Squaw Flat last time we checked. (Likely it will be added soon.)

There is (free) overflow camping available outside the Park close to Indian Creek.

LOCAL INFORMATION

First stop should be the Moab Visitors Center if you are coming from that direction. Check on local news, road construction, trail closures, etc. For information on Canyonlands itself:

BEST HIKING GUIDEBOOKS

Best is Bill Schneider, co-founder of Falcon guidebooks.

There are a dozen other good Utah hiking books, of course, many of which include Salt Creek.

BEST TRAVEL GUIDEBOOKS

OTHER RECOMMENDED BOOKS

Desert Solitaire  - Edward Abbey, 1968 is the essential book for a visit to this region. His comic, insightful experiences as a Park Ranger in the early days still resonates with hikers today.

BEST MAPS

Trails Illustrated Needles and USGS Druid Arch, South Six-shooter Peak and Cathedra Butte. hiking

Check with the rangers at Needles information station. Double-check the route on the maps you will be carrying. (The Park Service tends to close and move backcountry camps. Trails are re-routed. Many maps are inaccurate in this region.)

It should be a no-brainer to follow a creek. But "impossible to get lost" are famous-last-words in canyon country.

On-line maps:

BEST WEB PAGES

After this page, the best links are:

BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS

MOVIES, VIDEOS, DVDs

There are many DVDs and VHS videos for sale in Utah which include Canyonlands. Salt Creek


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This page last modified Tuesday, December 25, 2007.