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One of the best hikes in the world is the
Juan de Fuca Marine Trail
The West Coast Trail is the best hike in the world. Right?
But we recommend neighbouring Juan de Fuca precisely because it is not the WCT.
WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE
Juan de Fuca is the West Coast Trail without the hassle of getting a "Trail Use Permit"
- it's the West Coast Trail alternative that does not cost C$140 or more
- Juan de Fuca camping is only C$5/person/night. (12 and younger are free)
- no quota on number of hikers
- no reservations needed
- you can hike Juan de Fuca year round, weather permitting, while the full WCT is only open 5 months a year
- pretty sea stacks and other fascinating coastal geology
- fascinating tidal pools at Botanical Beach and elsewhere
- good tent pads, far better than on the West Coast Trail
- gorgeous sunsets
- easy access from Victoria, B.C.
- campfires allowed below tide line
- we've seen whales, sea lions, bears and even a cougar dashing across highway 14
- this track has many harmless garter snakes not seen on the WCT
- this is a good hike for those who have not done much multi-day hiking
- it is easily hiked in segments, unlike the WCT
- leashed dogs allowed
- no biting insects
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CONSIDERATIONS
Emergency phone number is 911. (Unlike the WCT where you should not call 911.)
Critical on this hike: sections of the trail are impassable at high tide. Check maps posted at each trailhead. Remember to add one hour to the listed tidal times during May to October as Daylight Savings Time is in effect.
- May to October are the best months
- we like August and early September best of all
- off-season is very cold and rainy
- some mobile phones work some of the time.
- very muddy in spots
- extreme climbs and descents if you hit the tides wrong
- tides can trap you in the wrong place (we waded thigh deep at one point very dangerous!)
- rogue waves can knock an inattentive hiker into the sea
- creek crossings are normally no problem
- theft and vandalism of parked vehicles is a worry
- you must carry your own heavy pack
- miserably exposed, rain and wind is the norm. You need a good tent and tie-downs.
- summer highs around 14C (57F)
- risks of both hypothermia and heat stroke
- Juan de Fuca has very little old growth forest compared with the WCT
- bring rope to hang food from a tree or bear pole each night
- bear-proof food caches available at Little Kuitsche Creek and Payzant Creek
- parking fee of $5 / vehicle at some lots
- only cash can be deposited in tenting self-registration fee deposit boxes (bring a stack of C$5 dollar bills)
- China Beach may cost less, C$14.00/party /night
- small cabin at km20.5 for emergency use only
- share the trail with day-hikers, dogs, kids, surfers, and bikini-clad sunbathers
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Though Juan de Fuca is always referred to as "easier than the West Coast Trail ", don't be complacent. Footing can be treacherous. Bear Beach to Chin beach can be as challenging as anything on the WCT.
Gladly, if you have problems it is easier to escape Juan de Fuca. Several emergency trails lead up to the highway. (On the WCT you would be stuck.)
ROUTE
- coastal hike of 47km (29mi)
- trailheads near towns of Port Renfrew (Botanical Bay) and Jordan River (China Beach)
- two additional trailheads with road access: Parkinson Creek & Sombrio Beach
- all campsites are first-come, first-served
- decide as you go where you want to camp. An "open" itinerary is best.
- we recommend 5 days, 4 nights on the trail for an optimal experience. But you can easily vary the route for shorter hikes, if you are short on time.
- often you can choose between an inland path or a coastal route. The coast is almost always better.
- you need study a tide chart to plot your best itinerary, hitting specific points at low tide
- more hikers are through hiking Juan de Fuca and the West Coast Trail
with a resupply in Port Renfrew.
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LOGISTICS
- most hikers travel from Victoria, a lovely tourist destination
- buy fuel & rent gear, if needed, at MEC in Victoria
- travel by personal vehicle to one of the trailheads, or book with the convenient West Coast Trail Express
bus. (If you book a return fare, this company will store your excess luggage until you finish the hike.They also rent gear.)
- many hikers park a vehicle at the start, then catch the hiker's shuttle bus back once they finish
- start the hike from either end, or either of the access points in between. You have many options.
- highway 14 connects all 4 trailheads. It is clearly signed.
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New to us is an option to reserve on-line for China Beach (but not the other campsites). We would not bother making a reservation. But if you are interested, check:
INDEPENDENT OR GUIDED?
Don Mills, author of Giant Cedars, White Sands, will guide you for day hikes only and you can combine that with a stay at waterfront Selkirk Guest House in Victoria, if you wish.
For multi-day hikes ...
Almost everyone hikes Juan de Fuca independently, however.
LOCAL INFORMATION
BEST TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS
Don Mill's book is dedicated to this hike. It's the best guidebook. We particularly like his "Exploring Hidden Treasures" section.
Payne's book has errors and is out-of-date but is still worth carrying on the trip. It's small and includes some interesting background detail.
BEST TRAVEL GUIDEBOOKS
There are many others. We like LP's format and maps best.
OTHER RECOMMENDED BOOKS
Brawn's book is particularly good for those looking for a pre-hike fitness program. It is just as valuable for Juan de Fuca hikers as for the WCT.
BEST MAPS
The best map by far is included with Giant Cedars, White Sands (1:50,000). You can buy the map separately, but that would be crazy. Get both.
BEST WEBSITES
After this page, the best links are:
BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS
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