World > South America > Central Andes

One of the best hiking regions in the world is the

CENTRAL ANDES

Many are under the impression that South America is dangerous. Not so much. The risks of theft and personal assault are greater in Europe or North America.

You might also assume the trekking season is Nov-Apr as it is in Patagonia. It is. But the best weather for the high peaks out of Huaraz is the drier "Andean summer": May-Sept.There are good hikes in this region year round.

AT A GLANCE

ANDES

The "central Andes" as defined by Lonely Planet are in 3 countries: Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia.

  • most famous are the Peruvian treks — but Bolivia has the potential, one day, to be just as popular
  • most famous of all is the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu — though it's too regulated, too crowded for us
  • volcano climbs in Ecuador are amongst the world's best
  • towering peaks, perfect alpine lakes, mystical cloud forest. There is much to do and see.
  • Inca ruins are a huge attraction
  • independent, self-sufficient hikers love Peru, if they speak conversational Spanish
  • but it's easy to sign on with experienced, English speaking, trekking guides if you prefer.
  • Peru is very "touristy". Bolivia, just the opposite. Political instability keeps many away. Ecuador is just right.

WHY WE LIKE THIS REGION

  • South American Explorers club!
  • sparsely inhabited. Almost as wild as North America if you get to the right places.
  • it's very inexpensive to travel here
  • very inexpensive to hire a guide and pack animals
  • the Andes are the second highest mountains in the world, yet hiking is relatively undeveloped. You can have the mountains to yourself
  • we enjoy the indigenous Quechua peoples and their Andean culture
  • intensely glaciated, intensely beautiful — in the Andes you are almost always "above the treeline"
  • hotsprings, volcanoes
  • unique wildlife including condors, llamas, etc.
  • remote, forbidding mountains are a great challenge
  • few biting insects at higher elevations
  • few dangerous animals of any kind
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view from your rooftop in Huaraz, Peru

CONSIDERATIONS

  • conversational Spanish almost essential
  • prices are often not "fixed", you must negotiate
  • small bribes & fees are expected of hikers
  • altitude sickness is a big risk on many of the best treks
  • acclimatization in Cuzco 3326m (10,912ft), La Paz 3810m (12,500ft), or Quito 2800 M (9200ft) means you need time. A lot of time.
  • evacuation is difficult in many places
  • no rescue service is available. You are on your own.
  • No Park officers. No campsites. No toilets. That's the reality in most of the Central Andes.
  • risk of robbery has been greatly exaggerated. Still, we personally bypassed the Illampu Circuit in Bolivia because of reports of systematic robbery.
  • in the high mountains you can get snow any month
  • expect high winds and cold
  • tent camping only, few mountain huts or shelters
  • if you are flying, you will likely come via Quito, Lima or La Paz.
  • Lima is most often the least expensive destination. Via Lima, many hikers fly directly to Cusco, Arequipa or (best of all) Huaraz.

  • the more time you have for your trip, the better, in this part of the world. Logistics are time consuming.
  • sooner or later, someone is going to offer you Guinea Pig to eat, the Andean staple. Be ready.
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BEST TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS

Trekking in the Central Andes by Lonely Planet is the best starting point. (It's worth comparing other guidebooks, South American Explorer handouts, etc.)

BEST HIKES IN THE CENTRAL ANDES

Our favourite is difficult, remote Ausangate. But all of these are life changing.

If you are here for the Incan ruins, Choquiquirao to Machu Picchu is your best trek.




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This page last modified Thursday, December 20, 2007.