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One of the best hikes in the world is the
illampu circuit
Also known as:
- Illampu Circuit Sorata to Sorata
- Laguna Glacial and Illampu
 BOLIVIA Bolivia should be one of the best hiking countries in the world. But government instability & a lack of infrastructure delay the arrival of that glad day. Trekking in Peru is far easier.
Note: This page is a stub. You can expand it by e-mailing comments, recommendations and links in the appropriate sections below. Our editors will add your comments. Thanks for your help!
WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE
Sublime, remote alpine trekking around the Illampu & Ancohuma massifs. It's demanding, to say the least. This trek is for serious, experienced, confident alpine hikers only. If that is not you — do the excellent, shorter Laguna Glacial trek out of Sorata instead.
- 106km (66mi) plus sidetrips (e.g. Laguna Glacial)
- Laguna Glacial is well worth the few extra hours hiking — a glacier crashing on to a frozen lake at 5038m (16,529ft)
- recommended 7 days, 6 nights
- start and finish in the lovely mountain town of Sorata 2695m (8,842ft)
- highest point is 5045m (16,552ft)
- likely to spot condors
- pack animals recommended if you want to do the whole Circuit
- easier, shorter alternative is the 3 day, 40km (25mi) Laguna Glacial trek in the same region which you can do independently.
- a longer alternative is sometimes called the Transcordillera trek (Sorata - Chacapampa)
- no permit is required as yet
- easy access from the capital, La Paz
- travel in Bolivia for as little as US$20 / day (2005). It's the least expensive country in South America.
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CONSIDERATIONS
- this is demanding high altitude trekking
- tent camping only, no mountain huts available
- systemic robbery near Laguna San Francisco is a worry — though having a local guide should get you through safely
- altitude sickness is a serious risk
- many passes over 4000m (13,123ft)
- evacuation in case of trouble extremely difficult
- happily, most hikers are acclimatized from days in La Paz 3810m (12,500ft)
- be self-reliant & carry a good first-aid kit
- the first day is a huge climb out of Sorata
- some route finding & scrambling
- be prepared for temperatures well below freezing
- you can get snow any month
- best time to hike is during the Andean dry season, May to September
- dress respectfully. The indigenous Aymara people are very conservative. Take no photos without permission.
- best to bring everything with you from La Paz though some gear is available to rent in Sorata
- a multi-fuel stove is recommended (fuel is available in La Paz and Sorata) though you can buy propane/butane canisters in La Paz
- biting insects might be a nuisance at lower altitudes
- good UV rated sunglasses recommended
- sadly, this popular trail is littered
- you need to speak conversational Spanish
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ROUTES
LOGISTICS
- it can be dangerous to fly to La Paz directly — it has the highest international airport in the world 4050m (13,287ft)
- slightly better is to fly to Cuzco, Peru 3326m (10,912ft) to start acclimatizing. Later travel to La Paz by bus or plane.
If you sign on with a guided trip, logistics will be organized for you. This section is for independent hikers.
- in La Paz it is reasonably easy to find transport to Sorata at the far western end of the Cordillera Real (Royal Mountains)
- Unificado Sorata is a recommended bus company
- Sorata is 4hrs drive from La Paz or 2hrs from Copacabana, Lake Titicaca on the Peruvian border
- police & military roadside checkpoints require you carry your passport on this hike
- Sorata is one of the best places to relax in Bolivia. There are a number of good gringo hostels & restaurants.
- even one night overnight is long enough to organize pack animals for departure next day
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INDEPENDENT OR GUIDED?
You will have no problem in La Paz signing on with one of the many trekking agencies on Calle Sagarnaga. But it's even better to bus to Sorata and organize it there — dealing directly with the guide / arriero.
If you hire help yourself in Sorata, budget approximately:
- arriero (mule driver) = US$12 / day
- pack animals = US$12 / animal / day
- porter = US$12 / day
- guide = US$25-50 / day
- tip = about 25% if you are happy with service
Do you know the current fixed rates in Sorata? If so, please email to update this section.
Independent hikers need also budget:
- for campsites, some of which may charge a small fee
- near the township of Cocoyo you may be asked for a donation for the school
- our policy is to smile & happily give a small donation if a receipt is provided. If not, then offer whoever makes the request a small bit of food, instead, as a token of friendship. But no money.
- we generally do not give anything to children who beg
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LOCAL INFORMATION
In La Paz, the trekking agencies on Calle Sagarnaga are happy to supply information.
BEST TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS
BEST TRAVEL GUIDEBOOKS
Most travellers prefer Lonely Planet. But many swear by Footprint Guides which, sadly, include advertising.
OTHER RECOMMENDED BOOKS
BEST MAPS
- German Alpine Club 1:50,000 Alpenvereinskarte Cordillera Real Nord (Illampu) covers most of the circuit
- O'Brien Cartographics Cordillera Real Recreation Map & Guide to the Inca Trails covers the missing section
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Many different maps of mixed quality are available in La Paz. The simple trekking guidebook maps are useful too.
We recommend you rely on a guide or arriero, far better than any map.
On-line maps and images:
BEST WEBSITES
After this page, the best links are not much help. The trip reports are more useful.
BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS
MOVIES, VIDEOS, DVDs
- Bolivia
 , 2005, feature film directed by Adrián Caetano
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