Whitney guidebook 2005


Sierra guidebook 2002


travel guidebook 2006




One of the best hikes in the world is the

Mt. WHITNEY TRAIL

Hikes in this area are called:

  • Mount Whitney Trail (most popular)
  • John Muir Trail
  • New Army Pass
  • High Sierra Trail
  • Circumnavigation of Mount Whitney

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Note - Access is restricted between May 1st and November 1st, permitting only 60 backpackers and 100 day hikers daily on the Mount Whitney Trail. There are a number of alternative hikes to the summit for which the quota does not apply. If you do not get one of the precious permits, ask about other options.

This page covers just the Mount Whitney Trail, by far the most popular route.

The red dot is SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK , California.

AT A GLANCE

  • the highest point in the continental USA at 14,505ft (4,421m) though the exact height is contested
  • it's said only about 1/3 of 30,000 climbers / year reach the summit
  • 10-16hr tough day hike!
  • 3 days, 2 nights is ideal due to altitude
  • 22mi (35.4 km) round trip with an elevation gain of 6100ft (1859m)
  • getting a permit for overnight is complicated
  • Mt. Whitney even requires a (different) permit for day hikes above a certain altitude
  • best months July - Sept (ice axe and crampons may be useful off season and at altitude)
  • medium-hard hiking, depending on weather and trail conditions
  • no public transportation to trailheads
  • bear-proof food canister required (rent for $2.50 / day)

Whitney is the highest mountain in the lower 48, and the most climbed.

WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE

The most popular climb in the USA.

  • no climbing gear needed
  • surprisingly easy if you get good weather
  • it's a beautiful and impressive peak
  • Whitney is on both the John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trails
  • the Wilderness Permit is free
  • you are only 76mi (123km) west of the lowest point in North America in Death Valley
  • visiting the nearby Alabama Hills
  • signing the summit register makes you feel an "alpinist"
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CONSIDERATIONS

  • altitude sickness is your biggest worry, especially if you are arriving from sea level
  • some hikers bring DIAMOX (Acetazolamide) — we do not recommend it
  • guidebooks are useful for tips on training for altitude
  • you need a very good water filter as the supply is limited and a risk of contamination high
  • over-nighters are required to carry a bear-resistant canister (they can be rented when you pick up your permit)
  • you must poop in a bag. (If you've never done it, you are in for an experience. Bags provided free of charge when you pick up your permit.) Solar pit toilets are available at Outpost Camp and Trail Camp but they are not sufficient for the number of hikers.
  • 97 switchbacks up to Trail Crest
  • animals are very accustomed to stealing food from hikers. Even though we had all food and "smellies" locked in a bear canister, a cute chipmunk chewed through our tent at Trail Camp — attracted by some batteries wrapped in plastic.
  • the emergency hut near the summit is not considered safe during a lightning storm.
  • bears are a concern. Do not hike alone at night.
  • it's normally cold and windy at the top. Many hikers do not bring enough warm clothing.
  • it may snow by the third week of August. On the other hand, late Aug through Sept. may be the best time of year if you get good weather.
  • there is limited parking at Whitney Portal on a busy day
  • you are not supposed to leave food in the vehicle at Whitney Portal (due to bears) but there are not enough bear lockers to accommodate a full camp.
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The biggest hassle with Whitney is getting a reservation for a permit. Here's the (very complicated) process to get a Permit reservations in advance for 2007.

First, you must put your name into a lottery:

"Applications must be submitted by mail with a February postmark to be accepted into the Lottery ... We will not respond to lottery applications submitted by fax."

Mark on your calendar Feb. 1st as the application by mail must be postmarked February ... but received by Feb 15th. (This is pitiful, we feel. When is Inyo National Forest going to accept on-line applications?)

US$15 per person reservation fee

Mt. Whitney February Lottery application

Mt Whitney Lottery
Wilderness Permit Office
351 Pacu Lane, Suite 200
Bishop, CA 93514

If you miss the February lottery, or are not chosen, here is the next (confusing and complicated) step:

"After the Lottery is completed, the dates that have space leftover will be posted by April 1st on the Mt. Whitney Reservation Availability page ... Leftover space can be applied for using the general wilderness permit application.

Applications for leftover space on the main Mt. Whitney trail will be accepted by phone, fax or mail beginning on:

  • The third Wednesday of April ( April 18, 2007 ) for trips starting in May or June
  • The fourth Wednesday of April ( April 25, 2007 )for trips starting in July
  • The first Wednesday of May ( May 2, 2007 ) for trips starting in August
  • The second Wednesday of May ( May 9, 2007 ) for trips starting in September or later"

If you are one of the many who do not get a permit, you may still be able to get one. Check at the Inyo National Forest Parks desk at the Eastern Sierra InterAgency Visitors Center, south of Lone Pine, for last minute availability for the next day. The fewer people in your group, the better your chances. Arrive 11AM the day before you want to start. Reserved permits that have not been claimed by the deadline (noon) will be cancelled and made available. Demand for walk-in wilderness permits is high on weekends, holidays and during the months of July and August. Try for a weekday, if possible.

Finally, if you still do not get a cancellation spot — ask about alternative trails, some by which you can still get to the top of Whitney. Richins recommends New Army Pass, High Sierra Trail and Circumnavigation of Mount Whitney as best alternatives.

ROUTES

  • first timers and those with limited mountaineering experience should do the normal route starting Whitney Portal at 8,360ft (2548m)
  • the trailhead's 13mi (21km) west of the town of Lone Pine, CA off highway US-395
  • camping is allowed anywhere more than 100ft away from water, but almost everyone stays at the campgounds:
    • Outpost Camp (lower)
    • Trail Camp (higher)
  • both are normally crowded, social and fun
  • the safest itinerary would have you stay night 1 at Outpost, night 2 at Trail
  • in 2006 we started early and set up camp night 1 at Trail Camp, spent a relaxed next day climbing Whitney without a pack, then returned to our tent for a second night at Trail. We were out on the third day by 1PM.
  • just about any itinerary works for Whitney except doing it in a day: 22mi (35.4 km), 6100ft (1859m) is not fun for most people!
  • Darin Letzring recommends a longer 5-6 day itinerary leaving a car at Whitney Portal, then starting at Onion Valley. Walk the John Muir / Pacific Crest trail south to Whitney and exit at Whitney Portal. "Incredibly awesome!  You get to see much more than simply the big mountain. Highlight of the trip was walking across Bighorn Plateau and staying the night on the west side of Whitney at 12,000 ft (above Guitar Lake). "
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LOGISTICS

If you sign on with a guided trip logistics will be organized for you. This section is for independent hikers.

  • first make your way to the small tourist town of Lone Pine, California on the doorstep of the Mojave desert. We could find no public transport. You should rent a vehicle as hitchhiking is difficult in the States.
  • free Wilderness Permits you pick up at the Inyo National Forest Parks desk at the Eastern Sierra InterAgency Visitors Center, south of Lone Pine, open 7 days a week, from 8AM-6PM in summer and from 8AM-5PM in winter.
  • you must list your planned itinerary on the Permit but your actual itinerary is up to you
  • hikers must carry animal cannisters to protect food from critters, including bears
  • there are dozens of conspicuous hotels and motels in town (but no hostel) and a number of campgrounds. If camping, however, stay at the Whitney Portal Family Campground to better start acclimatizing to altitude.
  • Some doze in a car at Whitney Portal to start acclimatizing the night prior to hiking, especially those trying it in 1 day. If you have time stay instead at Mammoth Lakes — 8500ft (2591m) — about 150 miles North of Whitney. Do a day hike there to help acclimatize to altitude. Then drive to Whitney Portal next morning to start on Whitney.

You can park at Whitney Portal. Or you might be able to hire transport to and from the trailhead (but don't count on it):

Mount Whitney as a day hike:

  • if you must do Whitney in a day, start as late as possible. Doug Thompson suggests a 4AM start. (Avoid using headlamps, if possible, as they cause some hikers nausea.) This schedule has you walking in the dark for the first couple of hours, and perhaps the last couple of hours on the descent. Doug often rests for an hour at a time to help with acclimatization on the way up. Schedule your trip close to the full moon, if you can.
  • a permit is still required, even if you do not overnight
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HIKING GUIDES

Most hikers do Whitney on their own, but you can hire an expert.

LOCAL INFORMATION

Doug Thompson at the Whitney Portal trailhead store is the man. If you have any specific question on Whitney, ask Doug.

The next best source is the official page for Whitney. (Site often has broken links. Phone them if necessary.)

  • Inyo National Forest - 760-876-6222 in Lone Pine
  • (760) 873-2483 or fax (760) 873-2484, Wilderness Permit Office in Bishop

Other pages:

BEST HIKING GUIDEBOOKS

Mountain Lore from the Whitney Store , by Doug Thompson is perhaps the most entertaining and valuable book, we feel. Fact is, no guidebook is needed by experienced hikers doing the main route during high season. A US$2.50 mini-map sold at the trailhead is all we used.

BEST MAPS

  • USGS 1:24,000 Mt Whitney and Mt langley quadrangles
  • USGS 1:62,500 Mt Witney and Lone Pine quadrangles
  • Tom Harrison Cartography 1:63,000 Mt Whitney High Country Trail

The trail is well marked easy to follow unless covered with snow.

On-line maps:

BEST WEB PAGES

After this page, the best links are

BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS

MOVIES, VIDEOS, DVDs, AUDIOCASTS



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This page last modified Tuesday, December 25, 2007.