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One of the best hikes in the world is the

MILFORD TRACK

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Note: DOC updated their website in 2007 and, as a result, many OLD web links break.

You can tramp the famed Milford Track in two ways:

  1. Guided = NZ$1590 and up in 2006, 4 nights including a Milford cruise
  2. Independent = about NZ$250 in 2005 for 3 nights, including extra fees but not the cruise

Confident hikers oft enjoy the cheaper independent experience better. But it is easier to get a spot on a guided tour.

AT A GLANCE

MILFORD SOUND, FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK

  • book months in advance to get a reservation
  • one-way track Lake Te Anau to Milford Sound
  • crystal clear waters, rainforest, waterfalls and a stunning mountain pass
  • max. elevation Mackinnon Pass 1154m (3786ft)
  • GPS measured 57km (35.5mi) plus sidetrips
  • 4-days, 3-nights
  • boat transport at both ends of the track
  • easy hiking, with steep sections
  • Dec - Mar best months
  • 1070m (3468ft) elevation gain

WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE

  • Fiordland National Park is part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage site, one of the great, unique wilderness areas of the world
  • sidetrip to Sutherland Falls, 580m (1903ft) over 3 leaps, one of highest Falls in the world
  • the astonishing history of this area
  • the reward of arrival at Milford Sound, an impressive fjord dominated by Mitre Peak
  • fishermen love the Clinton River. Get a licence, bring a light fishing rod & you are almost guaranteed to be eating trout the first night.
  • spotting the rare Whio (Blue Duck)
  • strict regulations & quota keeps the hike from being over-run. It does not feel crowded.
  • flush toilets at huts, pit toilets every hour or so along the Track
  • option to hike the Routeburn Track immediately after the Milford Track
  • the awkward New Zealand Wood Pigeon, energetic Paradise ducks, Weka & other interesting birdlife
  • watching comic alpine parrots try to open your pack
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Kea (parrot) atop Mackinnon Pass

CONSIDERATIONS

The Milford Track is inevitably listed as one of the top 10 hikes in the world — by journalists who have never been there.

Experienced Kiwi trampers know that there are a number of Tracks just as good or better, but not so famous. The Tongariro Northern Circuit, for example.

  • Milford is the most expensive hike in the country
  • broke hikers can walk to the Kepler Track trailhead from Te Anau
  • 10,000+ hikers / year means little solitude
  • Milford Sound gets 7m (23ft) of rain a year
  • prepare to get very wet on this hike
  • expect snow on the pass, high winds and rain any day of the year
  • summer highs average around 14C (57F)
  • biting sandflies can be a nuisance (though we only saw them the last day). The best strategy is to cover all exposed flesh possible.
  • no bikes, no dogs, no tents allowed
  • huts have gas stoves & cold running water but are basic, full and noisy. Bring earplugs.
  • no mobile phone coverage, but huts have radios
  • scenic tourist flights over the Pass can be distracting
  • sturdy shoes for rocky, muddy, snowy and uneven tracks advised
  • early season hikers (Oct-Nov) may be stranded due to avalance. If helicopter rescue is needed, the DOC tries to charge you for the cost.
  • consider buying travel insurance to guard against costs of injury or evacuation. Check carefully to see if your policy covers these problems.
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click for larger map  - DOC

ROUTES

There are only 2 itineraries allowed:

  1. Guided = Glade House, Pompolona, & Quintin huts
  2. Independent = Clinton, Mintaro & Dumpling huts


Muellerworld maps

  • guided hikers have a much more luxurious experience but still must carry a backpack for 4-8hrs / day
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GUIDED HIKE

Ultimate Hikes is the only company allowed to guide you on the Milford Track.

But if you would prefer to hike just a 1-day section, check out:

GETTING A RESERVATION TO HIKE INDEPENDENTLY

  • check up-to-date prices - travelink.co.nz
  • you can pay only with credit card
  • online registration begins 9AM (NZ time) July 1st, 2006
  • the available spaces go quickly! Be on the computer July 1st
  • alternately, contact a DOC office to make a booking by phone, fax, mail, email, or in person at the counter
  • bookings are required only for the hiking season (Oct 24, 2006 - Apr 27, 2007)
  • offseason you need make special arrangements to hike as the huts are not serviced. Email fiordlandvc@doc.govt.nz
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We were looking to hike one of the other wonderful Tracks nearby, doing research at the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre in Te Anau, when spaces became available for Milford due to cancellation. A notice was posted on a whiteboard. Instantly we bought those spots.

If you are travelling solo or two hikers together, it is worth inquiring about last-minute vacancies.

Or, if you cannot get a booking for the date you want, try putting in a request with Trek Watch who will notify you if a spot becomes available. They can also help you find trekking partners.

LOGISTICS

If you sign on with a guided trip, logistics will be organized for you. This section is for independent hikers.

  • get a travel guidebook to organize your travel to and around New Zealand — which has a fantastic tourist infrastructure
  • most hikers travel to the trailhead from Queenstown, or better, from Te Anau
  • rent gear, if needed, & purchase supplies in Te Anau
  • book transport in advance to take you the last 30km to the boat launch at Te Anau Downs
  • the boat trip is highly scenic in good weather, delivering you to Glade Wharf, the start of the Milford Track
  • the hike itself is consistently gorgeous, though the route is fixed
  • on the second night you stay at either Pompolona (guided) or Mintaro (independent). If the weather is good that day, hustle to the cabin, drop your pack, then day hike onward up to the top of Mackinnon Pass. This gives you 2 chances to see the highlight vista in clear weather.
  • the last day you finish at Sandfly Point
  • do not arrive too early — on account of the sandflies!
  • a boat takes you off the trail to Milford townsite, or ...
  • if you want to exit the trail in style, paddle out in a kayak. There are at least 2 companies to choose from.
  • buses are waiting to return you to Te Anau, but we recommend you stay at least 1-night in Milford.
  • the only inexpensive place to stay in town is Milford Sound Backpackers Lodge & campground . Check a guidebook for upscale alternatives.
  • the best upscale alternative of all is an overnight cruise on Milford Sound (rather than paying for a Hotel)
  • almost every hiker takes the memorable Milford Sound cruise.
  • a kayak tour on Milford Sound is great too, weather permitting
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LOCAL INFORMATION

BEST TRAMPING GUIDEBOOKS

Lonely Planet, succinct & easy to use, is the standard against which all other New Zealand tramping guidebooks are measured. But check out the new kid on the block, the Trailblazer Guide, as well.

BEST TRAVEL GUIDEBOOKS

Lonely Planet is the most complete & has the best maps.

OTHER RECOMMENDED BOOKS

BEST MAPS

No topo map is needed, however, for this tramp.

BEST WEB PAGES

BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS

MOVIES, VIDEOS, DVDs

CONTRIBUTORS


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This page last modified Tuesday, December 25, 2007.