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One of the best hikes in the world is
GANDEN TO SAMYE
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WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE
- it's the best trek close to Lhasa
- high lakes and bleak, remote mountain passes
- Ganden 4180m (13,700ft) to Samye 3540 (11,600ft) is a traditional pilgrimage route between two fantastic monasteries
- getting immersed in Tibetan history and their bizarre version of Buddhism
- you can extend the hike Samye to Taktse for an 8-10 day loop
- optional sidetrip scramble up to an ancient Nyingmapa retreat called Emmaling
- fantastic weather during the trekking season. (In October we did not see a cloud in the sky for weeks.)
- beautiful sand dunes close to Samye
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CONSIDERATIONS
- altitude sickness is a big risk, obviously
- our recommended route crosses two 5000m+ passes
- no rescue service is available. You are on your own.
- we hired a guide and pack horse — and the horse could not negotiate one rough section. We needed to unload the gear and carry it ourselves.
- when we did this trek, it was technically illegal
- regulations (like everything else) change abruptly in Tibet. Often the authorities are not sure what is allowed and what is not.
- visitors need a "permit" to visit Samye though many pass through without one
- most independent travellers deliberately disregard Chinese rules and "play dumb" when eventually caught
- China and Tibet are relatively expensive for foreigners. It helps to be able to speak some Mandarin and a few words of Tibetan.
- Tibetan mastiff guard dogs sometimes challenge hikers,
- it is a fairly easy walk for the most part, but with some very difficult sections
- best months April - October
- bring all food and gear from Lhasa
- temperatures can fall well below freezing at night
- snow may trap you in your tent
- no official campsites
- local people on the trekking route speak Tibetan, not Chinese
- you need good tents, warm sleeping bags and warm clothes
- rent gear if needed in Lhasa
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A great topic of conversation among travellers in Tibet is the confusing, changing set of rules and fees levied by the Chinese overlords. We found that most of the trekking we did there was common practice but officially illegal.
- 80km (50mi)
- recommended 4-5 days
- Zhukar La (Shug-la) 5250m (17,224ft) and Chetur La (Chitu-la) 5100m (16,732ft) are connected by a very high valley. You do not want to suddenly be stricken with altitude sickness there.
- consider a number of possible sidetrips
From Samye you need to cross the Tsangpo river by ferry (barge) or private boat to get to the highway back to Lhasa. Like many things in China, there is no fixed fare for the river crossing. Negotiate.
LOGISTICS
 If you sign on with a trekking company, they will take care of the difficult logistics organizing your trek.
This section is for those who want to do it independently.
- catch the crowded early morning pilgrim bus Lhasa to Ganden 52km (32mi)
- alternate trailhead is Trupshi though we like Ganden better
- spend at least 1 night at the basic guest house in Ganden acclimatizing and appreciating the monastery after the tour buses have departed
- you must pay for entrance to the monastery as well as an expensive fee to use a camera or camcorder
- do the "high kora" as a 2-hour day hike and the 1-hour "low kora"
- trek to Samye, sleeping in your tent
- accommodation under a roof is available in Hebu and possibly even at Emmaling
- pass through Samye quickly if you do not have a permit to be there. If stuck, you can tent or stay at the monastery guest house.
- there are day hikes around Samye, but we liked the sand dunes best
- the ferry is about 2-hours walk from the monastery.
- there are alternate river crossings where you are less likely to be stopped by officials in uniforms. Lonely Planet tells that it is not worth the full-blown desert walk to get to them.
- if you make it across the river, hitch — and then pay for — a ride back to Lhasa. Transportation is never free in Tibet.
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INDEPENDENT OR GUIDED?
Safest by far is to sign on with a trekking company.
We hiked independently, attempting in Ganden to hire a Yak to carry 2 packs for the first day or two. In the morning a stunted horse arrived. The horse turned out to be not nearly so well suited to the altitude.
Each year it gets easier to hire pack yaks.
Buckley tells that pack animals are not allowed all the way to Samye. Negotiate exactly how far they will take you.
BEST TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS
McCue's book is essential for independent hiking in Tibet. The Lonely Planet is far more up-to-date, but has less detail. Get your hands on both — you'll need them!
BEST TRAVEL GUIDEBOOKS
It gets easier to travel in Tibet every year, but it is still a hassle. Do as much advance reading as you can. Most critical is to get enough time on your Chinese tourist visa.
OTHER RECOMMENDED BOOKS
BEST MAPS
BEST WEBSITES
After this site, the best links are:
BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS
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