|
|
One of the best hikes in the world is
DINGRI TO EVEREST
Hikes in this region also called:
- Dingri to Everest Base Camp
- Dingri to Everest Base Camp Loop Trek
- Everest Base Camp to Tingri
English versions of Tibetan place names:
- Dingri often called Tingri
- Rongphu often spelled Rongbuk
- Chomolangma (Everest) also spelled Qomolangma, Jomolangma and Chomolungma.
Note: This page is a stub. You can expand it by e-mailing comments, recommendations and links in the appropriate sections below. Our editors will add your comments. Thanks for your help!
We loved hiking up to Everest from the Friendship Highway at Dingri. Sure you could drive to base camp. But the world's highest mountain is best appreciated if you trek.
WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE
- watching sunset on Chomolangma is sublime
- the east Kangshung Face of Everest is far more impressive than any view from Nepal
- visit the "world's highest monastery" 4920m (16,150ft)
- remote, few trekkers until you reach Base Camp
- it is possible to continue up the glacier without mountaineering gear. Is this the "highest trek in the world"? (US$200 fine if no trekking permit)
- trek through the huge Chomolangma Nature Preserve which includes 5 of the world's 8000m peaks
- our recommended route has you trekking directly towards massive Cho Oyu 8,201m (26,906ft), a wonderful sight
- fantastic weather during the trekking season. (In October we did not see a cloud in the sky for weeks.)
- there are many excellent alternative hikes from Dingri including Cho Oyu Base Camp
- ... add a comment here
Chomolangma (Everest)
CONSIDERATIONS
- this trek is dangerous!
- altitude sickness is a big risk. You could die.
- evacuation is difficult or impossible
- no rescue service is available. You are on your own.
- we met a Canadian visitor trapped at the monastery for 4 days with altitude sickness. The road down to the highway was closed. Or vehicles hired (by phone) to rescue him broke down. Or could not find fuel. He eventually got down and recovered. But it was scary at the time.
- it may be quicker to get to Kathmandu than Lhasa in case of serous emergency
- no campsites. No toilets.
- when we did this trek, it was technically illegal. It may still be so.
- regulations (like everything else) change abruptly in Tibet. Often the authorities are not sure what is allowed and what is not. You are never sure if a uniformed man is going to send you back to Lhasa, or invite you for tea.
- many independent travellers ignore Chinese rules, playing "dumb" when apprehended.
- officially all travellers in Tibet must be part of a tour group. In reality, people disappear from their tours and travel independently.
- Make sure your Chinese visa allows you enough time to trek. It is a serious mistake to overstay your visa.
- China and Tibet are relatively expensive for foreigners. It helps to be able to speak some Mandarin and a few words in Tibetan.
- many Everest trekkers have horror stories about the wind
- McCue had his dinner freeze on the plate faster than he could finish eating
- from Dingri you pass farms and houses but you may to be unable to buy much in the way of food. Carry everything you need.
- temperatures can fall well below freezing at night
- snow may trap you in your tent
- no official campsites
- local people on the trekking route speak Tibetan, not Chinese
- you need good tents, warm sleeping bags and warm clothes
- lower sections of the trek can be wet and muddy — but footing is excellent when dry
- any gear you leave outside the tent may disappear by morning
- if you stay in a Tibetan home, keep a close eye on your gear
- Tibet is very dusty. Boiled water is easily available but not hot showers. It is difficult to keep clean.
- ... add a comment here
You may be charged a Y65 fee for entry into the Quomolangma Nature Preserve though trekkers are often not flagged. You may also be asked to pay a Y50 PSB (public security bureau) travel permit. If you sign on with a tour, these fees and others are probably covered.
A great topic of conversation among independent travellers in Tibet is the confusing, ever changing set of rules and fees levied by the Chinese overlords. Many try to find ways to keep money out of the hands of the government, and put it into the pockets of local Tibetans.
We found that most of the trekking we did there was common practice but officially illegal.
- Dingri to Dza Rongphu (Rongbuk) Monastery (3-4 days)
- Dza Rongphu Monastery to Everest Base Camp (2-3hrs)
- Everest Base Camp to Dingri (via Lamar La)
Our advice is to trek sections 1 and 2 — but to find a ride back down to Dingri from the monastery.
Note: Lonely Planet Tibet  describes the reverse route, from Everest back down to Dingri.
Best months to hike are May - October though almost any month is possible as this trek is in the rain shadow. During the winter weather is stable but wind and cold may stop you.
The very best months most years are May and October.
Choose from a couple of alternate routes Dingri to Dza Rongphu.
Most stay at least 2 nights at the monastery or base camp and do some day hiking.
Mountaineers and adventurous trekkers can extend the hike by continuing up the glacier towards Everest. (A guide would be very helpful. We got lost on the glacier.)
You can hike down ... or try to pay for a ride with someone else descending. We hired a horse and cart to carry our packs one day down the road. Then climbed into the back of a dump truck (Tibetan people mover) the rest of the way back to Dingri.
... add a recommendation here
LOGISTICS
If you sign on with a trekking company, they will take care of the complex logistics organizing your trek.
This section is for those who want to do it independently.
- rent gear if needed in Lhasa
- purchase stove fuel in Lhasa
- next problem is getting to Dingri over 570km (350mi) from the capital
- Dingri is high — 4310m (14,150ft)
- almost every hiker comes in from Lhasa
- it is certainly possible to get to Dingri from Nepal (if you are allowed to cross the border) but the huge elevation gain will deliver you in very poor condition for trekking
- it is most likely illegal for you to travel independently to Dingri from any direction. Yet you will find many travellers hitching, biking, even walking independently.
- bring everything you need from Dingri which has a modest tourist infrastructure
- you may even be able to hire saddle horses to carry your packs up to the monastery. (These horses could then be used to evacuate anyone stricken with altitude sickness.)
- accommodation is available at the monastery and it is much warmer than your tent. A shop and simple meals are available there as well.
- as soon as you arrive, start looking for a ride back down to the highway — unless you want to walk
- ... add a comment here
INDEPENDENT OR GUIDED?
Browse the many exciting itineraries offered above. We have not used any of the firms.
Instead we hiked inexpensively and independently, trying to hire pack animals on the ascent to help get us up to altitude. The best we could manage was a horse and cart for a half day. On the descent we hired a horse and cart for a full day.
Moral of the story? Be prepared to carry everything. Consider it a bonus if you can rent pack animals.
Or — for Mt Everest's north face — maybe it is best to go with a tour!
LOCAL INFORMATION
BEST TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS
McCue's book is essential for independent hiking in Tibet. (We lost our copy en route to Advance Base Camp. Perhaps you will find it on the glacier.) The Lonely Planet is far more up-to-date, but has less detail. Get your hands on both — you'll need them!
BEST MAPS
BEST WEBSITES
After this site, the best links are
BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS
|
