World > Asia > Nepal > Annapurna Circuit

One of the best hikes in the world is the

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT

  • also known as Around Annapurna

Hikes in this area include:

  • Jomsom
  • Annapurna Base Camp

Note: This page is a stub. You can expand it by e-mailing comments, recommendations and links in the appropriate sections below. Our editors will add your comments. Thanks for your help!

The Annapurna Circuit is one of best long hikes in the world, no doubt. But one question weighs on everyone considering a trip there:

What about the Maoists?

One political party in Nepal, the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist), has abandoned participation in parliamentary democracy and is fighting a 'peoples war' against the Nepalese government. Consequently there is a civil war ongoing in Nepal at present. The Maoists appear to have significant support and appear to control the country apart from Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Khumbu Everest Trekking region, which are controlled by the Government of Nepal ....

No trekkers have been harmed during the conflict - both sides recognise the need for the revenues that tourism brings. Both sides are taxing tourists. You may therefore find that the Maoists may expect you to pay their trekking tax - keep the receipt! There is, in our opinion, no reason for tourists to be concerned about the Maoists.

YetiZone believes that the culture of Nepal is unique and worthy of preservation for future generations. We believe that the conflict should be ended by peaceful means in order to protect the people of Nepal and their culture. For this reason we do not support outside governments providing armed support for either side. We believe that the conflict can be and should be resolved by the Nepalese people themselves, and are confident of their ability to use their own skills and resources to overcome the challenges they face on the path to peace.

YetiZone FAQs - Ian Johnson

Since this was written, agreements have been made to stop this extortion of trekkers. No doubt requests for cash will still occur in places, but less frequently.

AT A GLANCE

Most hikers think of Kathmandu and Everest when they hear the word Nepal, but Annapurna (close to Pokhara) is far more popular and better for natural and cultural diversity. The Circuit circumnavigates the magnificent Annapurna massif.

  • one of our top 10 hikes in the world
  • trek between two of the highest mountains on Earth, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri
  • max. trekking elevation Thorung La 5416m (17,769ft) — many have died of altitude illness on that pass
  • Oct - Nov best months
  • Apr - May next best
  • about 300km (186mi) depending on route
  • 16-18 days are recommended, 3 weeks would allow a number of rest / illness / sidetrip / delay days
  • generally easy hiking on good trails with a light pack. Some very challenging sections, especially the high pass!
  • buy food as you go and stay in comfortable "lodges"
  • Annapurna is not inexpensive
  • there's a chance you will need to pay an additional unofficial "trekking permit" fee or "donation" to the Communist Party of Nepal while on the trail
  • if risk of altitude sickness deters you, do the Jomsom Trek instead

WHY WE LIKE THIS HIKE

We expected to dislike "teahouse trekking". But after a day or two, really began to enjoy it. Annapurna can be easier and more relaxing than any other long hike anywhere.

  • you walk from lush sub-tropic to the highest mountains in the world
  • the surreal light in the arid Trans-Himalayan region
  • wonderful cultural experiences with the Tibetan and mountain peoples
  • Buddhist temples, architecture and tradition
  • wonderful photographic opportunities
  • Thorung La 5416m (17,769ft) is the highest altitude ever reached by most hikers
  • very little gear is needed
  • you can easily get pack weight down to 10kg (22lbs)
  • walk with no tent, stove or food. Stay in lodges, eat in lovely restaurants. Even books are available on the trail!
  • it's safe and easy to hike solo
  • no need to speak Nepali, only English
  • food is good and quite safe
  • no electricity, no telephone lines, no internet (for the most part)
  • Kagbeni, the gateway to Lo (Mustang) is wonderful
  • spending time with local "entrepreneurs" in their tea houses and lodges
  • cheaper dorm beds as well as private rooms available
  • a number of hotsprings en route
  • walking the Kali Gandaki, the world's "deepest" river valley, 5500 to 6800m lower than the two peaks on either side
  • we were there for "Yak slaughtering day" (not sure it qualifies as a "highlight")
  • Himalayan Rescue Association operates out of Manang during the trekking season
  • ... add a comment here


Machhapuchhare from Tadapani - Dey Alexander's flickr photos

CONSIDERATIONS

By far the greatest danger is altitude sickness. Many hikers have died trying to cross the high pass, Thorung La 5416m (17,700 ft). On the other hand, it is easy to descend if you start to feel sick. And the long approach allows many days acclimatization.

  • crossing Thorung La can be a struggle even if you are acclimatized as the air is thin. Bad weather sometimes causes a build-up of hikers on the east side of the pass.
  • garbage is a problem in some sections
  • footwear is critical on long hikes where you have no chance for replacement
  • some hikers weary of bartering for prices for things
  • sunglasses / eye protection needed
  • this is not a wilderness hike. The Annapurna Circuit is mostly a road! On the other hand, by departing early in the morning, or hiking late during the afternoon, you can get the trail to yourself. We even did a side trip up to the Dhaulagiri icefall  — immediately finding ourselves scrambling an 8000m peak! (This is somewhat dangerous, of couse. But fun.)
  • both men and women are advised to wear modest clothing respecting local culture
  • we treated water with a filter but boiling is even better
  • "squater" pit toilets are the norm
  • many hikers run out of money, tempted by pizza, beer, German bakeries and everything else. Almost everyone spends more money than they expect.
  • evacuation by helicopter  costs about $3000, guaranteed in advance
  • you normally can fly out on inexpensive commercial flights from airports in Jomsom and Manang
  • there are a number of emergency phones at ACAP posts around the circuit as well as those privately owned
  • bring a combination padlock for the door in lodges
  • ... add a comment here

COST

  • almost everyone spends more money than they expect. Happily, an ATM is now available in Jomsom.
  • in 2006 a single entry tourist visa cost was US$30 cash for 60 days, conveniently for sale on entry into Nepal. No need to get it in advance. Nepal welcomes tourists.
  • Annapurna Conservation Area Project entry permit is required to hike. Most buy it from ACAP on Tridevi Marg, Kathmandu or in Pokhara from the ACAP office opposite Grindlays bank. It costs about US$30 (Rupees 2000). You can also buy the permit in the park, we have heard.
  • there are steep fines if you are caught without a permit or if yours expires while on the trail. This often happens as hikers enjoying the experience stay longer than they originally planned.
  • ... add a comment here

Numbers of Annapurna trekkers dropped in recent years due to the September 11th, 2001 attack, the 2001 murder of most of the Nepalese Royal Family, and the ongoing Maoist rebellion . We hope that more hikers travelling to Nepal improves the economy and brings stability.

ROUTES


larger map - Lirung.com

  • almost everyone walks counter-clockwise, this making the high pass much easier
  • the most popular start to the Circuit is Besisahar 820m (2,690ft), accessed by public transport from Kathmandu or Pokhara via Dumre
  • if you do not have enough time for the entire Circuit, do just the the Jomsom Trek (9 days, easy) or Annapurna Base Camp (10 days, difficult). There are many more options, of course.
  • though very popular, it is normally a bad idea to fly up to high airports in Jomsom 2760m (9055ft) and, even worse, Manang 3420m (11,220ft), due to risk of altitude sickness. But flying out is recommended though you may be delayed a day or more due to bad weather.
  • exiting at Naya Pul is easy. You will be back to the luxuries of Pokhara in no time.
  • ... add a comment here

Be leery of suggestions to bypass Thorung La and go via Tilicho instead. (Circuit map including Tilicho ) People have died in avalanche on that route. It's much more dangerous and difficult than it looks.

JOIN A TOUR GROUP FROM HOME?

It is tempting to sign on with an organized international tour from abroad. Many are are excellent. You have a choice of camping or "teahouse" (lodge) accommodation.

Talking to tour group hikers on the trail, however, a good percentage once there wish they had done it on their own. There are a number of downsides to being locked into the group itinerary.

(The most embarrassed people you will meet have porters carrying tables, chairs, dining tents and other creature comforts. Stay home if you need this kind of catering. )

Once in Nepal there are hundreds of local companies eager to sign you on. Some are great, others unreliable. We would join up only with a company for which we had personal references.

Check out some of the choices:

INDEPENDENT OR GUIDED?

One day guides may be required. At the time of this writing, you can still trek most sections independently.

If you do not sign on with a full tour, you can still hire your own local guide. We like this option better. And it puts all the money directly in the hands of the locals.

A guide will show you around, but not carry your gear. They may be Nepali or foreign. Many hikers are happier to be led — though you certainly can do the entire Circuit on your own without a guide. A good guide may enrich the trip for you. We did the hike in 1998 independently, but by the finish wished we had hired a guide, at least for parts of the Circuit.

A porter guide from the Trekking Workers' Association of Nepal is a local who speaks English who may also carry a limited load, perhaps 15kg (33lbs). You can hire a porter guide if and when you need one on the trail for something like US$10 / day plus tip. There is often an insurance fee added.

Here's the website of one such porter guide to give you an idea:

More porter guides:

Certainly, trekkers regularly have trouble with guides:

  • are sometimes insistent on where they want you to stop each night. This sometimes leads to conflict.
  • they ask for more money, or gear they "forgot" to bring
  • they may want to change / shorten the itinerary
  • they may ask you hire an additional porter once you get on the trail

But getting a good porter guide is a good choice, we feel. Get some help for a day, a week, or longer. Decide as you go. Be sure anyone you hire has written references. A personal referral is even better.

As we read on Devendra Pun's blog:

Taking a guide takes the hassle out of trekking in Nepal. A good guide can be a great fellow trekker.

LOGISTICS

If you sign on with a guided trip logistics will be organized for you. This section is for hikers travelling to Nepal independently.

  • most hikers fly to Kathmandu, buying a tourist visa at the airport
  • a couple of days sightseeing is typical while you adjust to Nepal and while waiting to purchase your trekking permit (photo required).
  • you can rent or buy gear if needed, though selection is limited
  • take a 5-6hr bus journey from Kathmandu to the turn-off at Dumre, then another bus 42km (26mi) to the trailhead at Besisahar
  • there is public transport to the trailhead from Pokhara, as well
  • flying Kathmandu - Pokhara is recommended, often one of the trip highlights (sit on the mountain side of the plane)
  • start up the Circuit, backtracking if the effects of altitude are too severe. A rest day at Manang is advised for acclimatization.
  • once crossing the high pass, you hike back down to Naya Pul where you can catch transport back to civilization in lovely Pokhara
  • if you run out of time, you probably will be able to fly out from Jomsom to Pokhara
  • or, if the Circuit is not enough challenge, you can extend the trip by adding a visit to Annapurna Base Camp. (We did this. It was much tougher than we expected, lulled into complacency on the easy Circuit. The Basecamp is getting easier, however, with the addition of more Lodges.)
  • ... add a comment here

LOCAL INFORMATION

BEST TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS

Both Thomas and Reynolds are good. The Lonely Planet books are well organized. Compare several guides if you can. Get one as early as possible to help with advance planning.

We'd love to try carrying the YetiZone Palm Pilot version with us on the Circuit.

BEST TRAVEL GUIDEBOOKS

OTHER RECOMMENDED BOOKS

BEST MAPS

In Kathmandu you can find many more maps, good and bad. You won't get lost on the Circuit, in any case. But they are useful for planning your days and tracking progress.

On-line maps

BEST WEB PAGES

After this page, the best links are

BEST PHOTOS & TRIP REPORTS


Looking for more? Use Google, the best search engine.
Google

World > Asia > Nepal > Annapurna Circuit

E-mail the BestHike.com editor with your feedback.

advertise on this page 

This page last modified Tuesday, December 25, 2007.